Studding Your Track

How to Stud Your Track

Choosing the right number of studs is NOT solely dependent upon the horsepower of your sled. It is mainly dependent on the overall weight of the snowmobile (rider and sled), and the riding style of the snowmobile. More track surface contacting the ground allows for more studs to contact the ground, subsequently more traction to the ground (you may need longer carbide runners to do this). Do not under-stud or use the minimum - you will not be happy, they could pull through the track. For maximum durability, a heavier trail rider requires more studs that a lighter trail rider. Use our recommended quantities for a trouble free set up for most riders/conditions.

How to Select a Stud Pattern

  1. Do not under-stud on the outside belt of the track – either use a minimum of one stud on every 2nd outside row on each side of the track or do not put any outside of the slide rails. Any 500cc or larger sled should have 1 stud per outside row or none at all on each row outside of the slide rails.
  2. Do not install studs 1" or closer to any edge of track (including slide windows).
  3. The center belt has the greater effect upon acceleration.
  4. The outer belts have a greater effect upon cornering.
  5. Layout as many "scratch lines" as possible. Space lines a minimum of 1/4" apart.
  6. Allow for adequate tunnel clearance.
  7. Install tunnel and heat exchanger protection.
  8. Install studs as rigidly as possible. Weak backing plated cause a loss of traction and stud failure and t-nut failure. Do not over tighten. Check torque specification.

How to Install Studs

  1. Determine the number of studs and stud pattern. Stud patterns shown on our recommendations are only a starting point. Use your imagination. *NOTE* Mark all holes and inspect for tunnel clearance before drilling. Template does not work with double backers.
  2. Work off the top of your track near the mud flap. (Pull two rear suspension mounting bolts on the tunnel, this helps greatly and is very easy - this drops the rear of the track).
  3. Using backer plates or studding template - lay out your pattern on the track.
  4. Make a detailed sketch of your pattern, measuring from any reference point of the track you desire, preferable the slider windows. An offset of at least 1/4" is best between each "traction line".
  5. Drill out one backer plate as a template for the DT100 or DT200 drill tools.
  6. Use an Accord track cutter to bore a hole in the track where each stud is located by using your backer plate as a template.
    1. Use of a template insures accurate stud location, especially when installing 120 studs or more. The track cutter tools cuts cleanly and leaves the perfect size hole without weakening the track by overheating.
    2. When using push-thru studs such as Warthogs, Top Dogs, Traction Monsters or Stinger, insert the stud through the track, slip the backer plate over the stud, install the locknut and tighten until the studís shoulder bottom out on the backer plate. Repeat until all studs are installed. Locktite is not needed when nylon nuts are used. All Warthogs, Top Dogs, Traction Monsters and Stinger studs use nyloc nuts. Refer to torque specifications as to not over tighten.
  7. Be sure to install proper tunnel guard protection when studding any sled.

Indy of Sled Shed TV provides a more in-depth look at installing Snow Studs: